Reykjavik, Iceland

Brennevin & Borg Brugghus Imperial Stout

To walk through the landscapes of Iceland is a uniquely strange experience, reminiscent of a dream or a Tolkien novel.  It’s easy to imagine trolls roaming across the hills, breaking the silence that overwhelms the land.  As an American the history here is more than I can grasp, feeling like the descriptions of distances in space.  Icelandic parliament was established here at Thingvellir in 930 AD and is still standing, a stout stone building with the visage of a Viking surveying a battlefield.  Alcohol production in Iceland is overseen by the national brewery, Borg Brugghus, and first up is a sampling of their Imperial Stout.

At 10%, this stout is a serious as the Nordic stoics that brewed it.  Loaded with more black chocolate, coffee, and roasty toasty malts than a mortal human mouth can contain, it rides like a blood thirsty Valkyrie across the tongue, axe in full swing.  My experience of this beer was equal parts enjoyment and submission to its will.  I returned to this stout several more times while in Iceland and never regretted it.  At least not until the next morning.

Next up was a traditional Icelandic liquor called “Brennevin,” pronounced Bren – ye – veen, which means “burning wine” in Icelandic.  It is essentially vodka that is infused with cumin.  I don’t know why they chose cumin, and nobody ever explained this to me in any way that I could really grasp.  When Oskar, the very friendly barkeep, suggested I try it if I wanted to try something traditionally Icelandic, I happily agreed.

Oskar shows off the black label of Brennevin, with a stark white image of Iceland.

It’s not quite “burning” as it’s not a particularly spicy or hot drink, and it is traditionally served chilled, so it’s a bit like a vodka shot with a hint of Mexican food in the aftertaste.  Fairly pleasant, and if you’re offered it just accept and enjoy with no fear.